Small Town China · Stop 01 · Zhejiang
越剧的故乡，小笼包的老家，唐诗之路上的一座小城。
The birthplace of Yue opera, the home of xiaolongbao, and a small city on the Tang Poetry Road.
自爱名山入剡中
嵊州是浙江省绍兴市下辖的一座县级市，在杭州东南约一百公里。四周群山环绕，中间是一片盆地，剡溪从城中流过。
Shengzhou is a county-level city under Shaoxing in Zhejiang Province, about 100 kilometers southeast of Hangzhou. It sits in a basin ringed by hills, with the Shan stream running through the middle of town.
嵊州古称“剡”。北宋宣和三年（1121 年），因为“剡”字由两个“火”和一个“刀”组成，被认为带有兵火之象，改名为“嵊”。1995 年撤县设市，成了今天的嵊州市。
In ancient times the place was called Shan (剡). In 1121, during the Northern Song dynasty, it was renamed Sheng (嵊): the old character, made of two “fire” signs and a “knife,” was thought to bode war. In 1995 the county became today’s city of Shengzhou.
图 / Photo: N509FZ · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons深度 In depth · 嵊州风味 Shengzhou food
街头那么多“杭州小笼包”，不少其实来自嵊州。老面发酵，顶上留一个“鲤鱼口”，和上海的汤包不是一回事。
Many of China’s “Hangzhou xiaolongbao” shops trace back to Shengzhou. Raised with an old-dough starter and left open at the top, these buns are not Shanghai’s soup dumplings.
深度 In depth街头那么多“杭州小笼包”，不少其实来自嵊州。老面发酵，顶上留一个“鲤鱼口”，和上海的汤包不是一回事。
Many of China’s “Hangzhou xiaolongbao” shops trace back to Shengzhou. Raised with an old-dough starter and left open at the top, these buns are not Shanghai’s soup dumplings.
小笼包、炒年糕、炒榨面是嵊州小吃“三宝”。一百多种小吃，“嵊州小吃”的招牌开遍了全国。
Xiaolongbao, fried rice cakes and fried zhamian noodles are the “three treasures” of Shengzhou snacks — and Shengzhou snack shops are all over China.
1906 年春天，越剧在嵊州一个村子的祠堂前第一次登台。
In the spring of 1906, Yue opera took the stage for the first time — in front of a village hall in Shengzhou.
李白、杜甫都为剡溪写过诗；王羲之在这里度过晚年；“乘兴而来”的故事也发生在这条溪上。
Li Bai and Du Fu wrote about the Shan stream, Wang Xizhi spent his last years beside it, and a famous story about following a whim ends here.
嵊州是浙江省绍兴市下辖的县级市，在杭州东南约 100 公里。从杭州东站坐高铁，最快半小时左右就到。详见怎么去嵊州。
Shengzhou is a county-level city under Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province, about 100 km southeast of Hangzhou. The fastest high-speed trains from Hangzhou East take about half an hour. See Getting there.
越剧在这里诞生；嵊州小吃（小笼包、炒年糕、榨面）开遍全国；领带产量约占全国九成；竹编是国家级非物质文化遗产；这里也是龙井茶的重要产区。
Yue opera was born here; Shengzhou snacks — xiaolongbao, fried rice cakes, zhamian noodles — are sold all over China; the city makes about nine in ten of China’s neckties; its bamboo weaving is national intangible heritage; and it is a major Longjing tea region.
全国街头很多挂“杭州小笼包”招牌的店，其实是嵊州人开的：早年嵊州人外出开店，觉得杭州名气大，就用了杭州的名字。详见嵊州小笼包。
Many of the shops across China with a “Hangzhou xiaolongbao” sign are actually run by people from Shengzhou. Early on, Shengzhou bun makers borrowed the better-known name of Hangzhou for their signs. See Shengzhou xiaolongbao.
崇仁古镇、越剧诞生的东王村和施家岙一带的越剧小镇、王羲之后人聚居的华堂古村、约一万年前的小黄山遗址，还有穿城而过的剡溪。详见去哪儿走走。
Chongren ancient town; Dongwang Village, where Yue opera began, and the Yue Opera Town around Shijia’ao; Huatang, the village of Wang Xizhi’s descendants; the roughly ten-thousand-year-old Xiaohuangshan site; and the Shan stream running through town. See Places to visit.
古称“剡”（shàn）。1121 年因为“剡”字带有兵火之象，改名“嵊”。流经城中的剡溪，至今还用着老名字。
Its old name was Shan (剡). It was renamed Sheng (嵊) in 1121, because the old character was thought to bode war. The Shan stream that runs through town still carries the old name.
郑家老二住在嵊州，喜欢写诗、写随笔，也喜欢用手机拍照。笔名的意思是“郑家排行第二的孩子”。他是本站编者的父亲。Zheng Lao’er lives in Shengzhou. He writes poems and short essays and loves taking photos on his phone. His pen name means “second child of the Zheng family.” He is the editor’s father.
国庆节第四天，雨水多。趁着节日的好辰光，四个老表兄弟姐妹结队，早上从嵊州出发，中午赶到了杭城，连忙去瞧一瞧不曾谋过面的小孙女。见面好，见面真，只是小宝贝睡着了，只好拉拉手，权当见过面了。
The fourth day of the National Day holiday, and plenty of rain. Making the most of the festive days, four of us cousins set off together from Shengzhou in the morning and reached Hangzhou by noon, hurrying to see a little granddaughter we had never met. It was good to see her, good to see her for real — only the little darling was fast asleep, so we just held her tiny hand and called it a meeting.
今日上午驱车到三界去，一路上歌声飞扬，一曲祝福祖国，单曲循环，听得心情澎湃。祝福祖国的词作者厉害，他通过与前辈后辈的探讨中，将“花朵、信念、果实、旗帜，道路”在旋律中次第铺展，又在议论中，达成一致共识，显示出祖国的情怀，还有唱不完的颂歌。接下来更需要下一代，代代不懈的努力与付出，才能维持繁荣强盛。
This morning I drove to Sanjie, and the singing soared the whole way: one song, “Bless the Motherland,” on repeat, and my heart surged as I listened. The lyricist is remarkable. Drawing on conversations between elders and the young, he lays out “flowers, faith, fruit, flags, the road” one after another across the melody, and through that dialogue arrives at a shared understanding — a deep love for the motherland, and songs of praise that could never all be sung. What comes next asks even more of the generations to follow: only through their unflagging effort and devotion, one generation after another, can that prosperity and strength endure.
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